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Sutherland's Organic Solutions

Sutherland's Organic Solutions

Natural Lawn & Shrub Care


Most Common Lawn Care Questions

Organic Lawn Service RI MA CT - (401) 764-0740

Lawn Care Basics:

How often should I mow my lawn? Most lawns perform best with biweekly mowing during the active growing season. However, mowing frequency should be adjusted based on weather conditions. In cooler temperatures, biweekly mowing is ideal, while during periods of high heat, mowing should be reduced to every few weeks or even once a month. Regardless of the schedule, turf should never be cut too short; maintaining a higher mowing height is always healthier for the lawn.


How often should I water my lawn? Most lawns need about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, including rainfall. Using a water gauge helps track the amount of rainfall or irrigation your lawn receives each week. Water every other morning, as early as possible, to maximize absorption and reduce evaporation.


When should I mow, and how short should I cut the grass? Mow when the grass is dry, ideally mid-mornings (8:00 am -10:00 am) or late afternoons (4:00 pm – 6:00 pm).

  • Early Spring (March): First cut of the Season cut at 2.5 inches
  • Late Spring (April -May): Cut at 3 – 3.5 inches
  • Early Summer – Early Fall (June – Mid October): Cut at 4 – 4.5 inches
  • Late Fall/ Early Winter (November): Final cut of the season cut at 2.5 inches


Should I leave grass clippings on the lawn? Yes, grass clippings return nitrogen and nutrients to the soil. It improves soil health, adds organic matter, helps soil retain moisture/ nutrients, and supports beneficial microbes. Leaves can reduce waste, reduce bagging and hauling, and keep yard waste out of landfills.


How often should I fertilize my lawn? Typically, every 6–8 weeks during the growing season, depending on grass type, product, and seasonal conditions.


Why do I have brown or thin patches in my lawn? A lawn can turn brown for several reasons, and the cause isn’t always pests. Here are the common reasons: Drought Stress (Most Common), Heat Stress, Grub or Insect Damage, Chinch Bugs, Fungal Disease, Soil or Nutrient Issues, Dull Mower Blades, and/or Pet Urine. Contact us, we’re happy to help diagnose the problem and get your lawn back to healthy!

  • To narrow it down quickly, ask yourself:
    • Does it improve with watering and higher mowing? → Stress
    • Does the grass pull up easily? → Grubs
    • Is it spreading fast in the heat without additional factors causing the rapid pace? → Chinch bugs
    • Did it follow rain or humidity? → Disease


How do I control weeds in my lawn? Controlling weeds in your lawn works best when you combine prevention, proper lawn care, and targeted treatment. Strengthen your lawn by mowing high, watering deeply but infrequently, and fertilizing appropriately. Stop weeds from growing with preemergent and post-emergent treatments. Most importantly, be patient and consistent. Weed control isn’t instant. Consistent high mowing and proper watering over a full season (or two) will dramatically reduce weeds in the long term. Core Aeration and Over-Seeding are among the most effective cultural practices for combatting weeds from season to season.


How often should I Core Aerate or Over-seed my lawn? Most lawns benefit from annual Fall Core Aeration and Over-Seeding. Contact us to schedule your lawn care today!


Are lawn treatments safe? At Sutherland’s Organic Solutions, we use targeted, responsible products designed to protect your lawn, family, and pets.


Seeding, Soil & Growth:

Why won’t my grass grow in certain areas? Poor soil quality, compaction, shade, or nutrient deficiencies are common causes.


How do I fix thin or patchy grass areas? For most thin or patchy lawns, the best fix is to combine Core Aeration, Over-Seeding with high-quality grass seed, and consistent watering to help new grass fill in and thicken the turf.


Why is Core Aeration & Over-Seeding important? Core Aeration removes small plugs of soil to relieve compaction and improve root health, while Over-Seeding introduces new grass seeds to fill in bare and thinning areas. Core Aeration and Over-Seeding work together to deliver the best results; aeration creates ideal seed-to-soil contact, allowing seeds to fall into the aeration holes where they are protected from birds and drying out for better germination. This combination promotes faster germination, a higher success rate, and results in a denser, healthier lawn. Learn more about our Core Aeration & Over-Seeding service here: https://www.soslawn.com/aerating.html.


Weed, Pest & Disease:

How do I prevent weeds in my lawn? Proper mowing/watering, plus pre-emergent in early spring, helps prevent germination.


What pests are damaging my lawn? Grubs, Chinch Bugs, and Beetles are common culprits.


How do I check for Grubs? Look for visible signs. Common indicators of grub activity include Brown or thinning patches that don’t improve with watering or high mowing. Spongy turf that feels loose underfoot. Increased animal activity, such as birds, raccoons, or skunks, digging in the lawn.

  • Perform the Tug Test: In damaged areas, grab a handful of grass and pull gently. If the turf lifts easily like a carpet, grubs may have eaten the roots beneath the surface.
  • Dig and Inspect (Most Accurate Method): Dig 2–3 inches deep. Break apart the soil and look for white, C-shaped larvae. Finding 0–5 grubs per square foot is considered normal and healthy and typically does not require treatment. 6-10 plus grubs per square foot are likely to cause damage, and treatment is needed immediately.


How do I check for chinch bugs in my lawn? Look for visible signs. Chinch bugs suck moisture from grass blades and stems, causing irregular yellow or brown patches that spread outward, resulting in damage that doesn’t improve with watering, most common in hot, sunny areas of the lawn (along sidewalks or driveways)

  • Inspect the Thatch Layer: Part the grass near damaged areas, look at the soil surface, and the thatch. Adult chinch bugs are small, black, with white wings. Nymphs are reddish orange with a white band.
  • Do the Coffee Can/Water Test (Most Accurate). Cut out the bottom of a large coffee can (or metal cylinder). Push it 1 -2 inches into the soil in a damaged area. Fill it with water and wait 5 to 10 minutes. Chinch bugs will float to the surface.


Why are mushrooms or fungus growing in my lawn? The common cause is usually excessive moisture + organic material breakdown. Mushrooms thrive in damp soil. Often appear after rain, heavy watering, or high humidity. They are common in shaded or poorly drained areas. Fungi feed on decaying material like old tree roots, burned wood, or construction debris, and thatch or grass clippings. Even lawns with no visible debris can have material underground.


Why is moss growing in my lawn? The most common reason for moss is too much shade. Grass needs sunlight, moss does not. Heavy tree covers, or north-facing areas, tend to stay damp and shaded. The Fix: Prune trees or switch to shade-tolerant grass varieties. Excessive moisture or poor drainage can also be a factor; constantly wet soil favors moss growth. Overwatering or compacted soil prevents drainage. The Fix: Improve drainage, aerate, and adjust watering schedules.


Watering & Irrigation:

How long should I run my sprinklers? Long enough to deliver ~1 to 1.5 inches of water weekly, deeply and infrequently. The estimated duration is approximately 20 minutes, 2 -3 times per week. Water every other morning as early as possible.


Is my lawn getting too much or too little water? Overwatering leads to shallow roots and fungus; underwatering causes stress.

  • Signs Your Lawn Is Getting Too Much Water: What you’ll see
    • Constantly mushy or soggy soil
    • Mushrooms or algae growing
    • Yellowing grass (especially lower blades)
    • Thinning turf or bare patches
    • Increase in weeds (they love wet soil)


  • Signs Your Lawn Is Getting Too Little Water: What you’ll see
    • Grass turns brown, yellowish, or dull
    • Footprints remain visible after walking on it
    • Dry, crunchy blades
    • Soil pulls away from edges (cracks)
    • Brown patches that don’t bounce back overnight


When should I turn on my irrigation system in the spring, and when should I winterize it in the Fall? Turn On General Rule: Turn on the irrigation system after the last hard freeze and once the soil has warmed. The best indicators are that night temperatures are consistently above 40 degrees, soil temperatures are at least 50 degrees, and no hard freeze is forecast. Turn Off General Rule: Winterize the irrigation system before the first hard freeze. The best indicator is that temperatures might approach 32 degrees, and the first hard freeze is in the forecast within 1-2 weeks.


Equipment & Maintenance:

How often should I sharpen mower blades? Dull blades tear grass, causing it to brown/stress. Check your mower blades after 20-24 hours of use; they often need resharpening to ensure a pristine cut.


When should I clean my lawnmower? After Every Mow (Quick Clean – 2–5 minutes). This is the best habit if you want your mower to last longer. Every 5–10 Mows (Deeper Clean). Do this regularly during the growing season.


Service Related:

What lawn care services do you offer? We offer a full range of lawn care services, including Fertilization, Crabgrass Prevention, Broadleaf Weed Control, Calcium Lime, Grub and Insect Prevention, Tick Prevention, Natural Mosquito and Tick Sprays, and Fall Core Aeration and Over-Seeding. Sutherland’s Organic Solutions proudly provides professional lawn care services in Southern New England, including Rhode Island, South Central and Eastern Massachusetts, and Eastern Connecticut.


How much does lawn care cost? Our programming prices are tailored to your treatable lawn square footage. Call us to schedule your Free Lawn Care Estimate and Analysis and get started today.


How long until I see results from lawn treatments? Results may vary. Lawn care is a science, and Mother Nature is unpredictable, making it difficult to guarantee how a lawn will respond from season to season. Our program is a 50/50 partnership; results depend on both the nutrients we provide and proper ongoing homeowner maintenance.


Do I need to be home during my lawn care service? You are not required to be home during our visit. If we can access your lawn, the Service Manager will complete the service as scheduled and leave a service summary. If you are home, feel free to say hello; the Service Manager would be happy to meet you and discuss your lawn.


What should I do before or after a lawn treatment? Prior to your scheduled service, our office will email you a Service Notification 48 hours in advance. This email will include details about the upcoming service, along with service and season-specific instructions and recommendations. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to contact the office at any time before or after your service.